Learn / Purity, karats and hallmarks
Solid, plated, gold-filled and vermeil compared
Plated, gold-filled and vermeil jewelry all look golden but contain very different amounts of gold. This comparison table shows the differences and how long each lasts.
Same look, very different metal
A gold-colored chain can be solid 14K gold, a thick bonded layer of gold over brass, a thin coat of gold over silver, or a microscopically thin film of gold over cheap metal. They can look identical in a shop window, but their gold content, durability and value are worlds apart.
The comparison table
| Type | What it is | Typical gold content | Lasts | Common marks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid gold | The whole item is a gold alloy | 37.5 to 99.9 percent of the weight, depending on karat | Generations | 10K, 14K, 18K, 585, 750 |
| Gold-filled | A thick layer of karat gold mechanically bonded to a base metal core | At least 1/20 of total weight in the US | Many years with care | GF, 1/20 14K GF, 14/20 |
| Rolled gold plate | Like gold-filled but a thinner layer | Less than 1/20 of total weight | Years, with gradual wear | RGP, 1/40 RGP |
| Vermeil | Karat gold plated over sterling silver | Thin layer, but thicker than ordinary plating | A few years with care | 925 plus vermeil |
| Gold electroplated | A thin electroplated layer over base metal | Tiny | Months to a few years | GP, GEP, HGE |
| Gold flashed or washed | An extremely thin layer | Negligible | Weeks to months | Often unmarked |
Gold-filled
Gold-filled (GF) items have a layer of karat gold mechanically bonded to a core, usually brass, using heat and pressure. In the US, the Federal Trade Commission's jewelry guides say "gold filled" should mean the gold layer makes up at least 1/20 of the item's total weight. A mark like 1/20 14K GF means one-twentieth of the weight is 14K gold.
Gold-filled jewelry can last many years without wearing through, because the layer is much thicker than plating. It cannot be resized easily by cutting without exposing the core.
Vermeil
Gold vermeil (pronounced roughly "ver-may") is sterling silver coated with gold. US FTC guidance says vermeil should mean a sterling silver base with a gold layer of at least 10K fineness and at least about 2.5 micrometers thick. That is far thicker than standard plating. Vermeil is popular in demi-fine jewelry. When the gold wears thin, the silver underneath can tarnish.
Gold plated
Gold plated items are coated by electroplating, using electric current to deposit gold from a solution onto a base metal such as brass, copper or stainless steel. US FTC guidance links the term "gold electroplate" to a minimum layer of about 0.175 micrometers of at least 10K gold, and "heavy gold electroplate" to about 2.5 micrometers. Items described as "gold flashed" or "gold washed" have even less.
Plating wears through on high-contact spots such as ring bands, bracelet edges and clasps. Once the base metal shows, it can tarnish or turn skin green. See why gold does not rust.
How to tell them apart
- Look for marks with a loupe: GF, RGP, GP, GEP, HGE, 925 or a karat stamp. See hallmarks.
- Check wear spots: different-colored metal showing through on edges means plated or filled.
- Consider the price: a heavy "18K" chain at a fraction of the gold value is almost certainly not solid.
- Use a magnet: gold is not magnetic. A strong pull suggests a steel or nickel core, though many base metals are not magnetic either.
- Get it tested: jewelers can use acid or XRF tests, but plating can fool surface tests; filing a small hidden notch before an acid test is the classic way to look beneath the surface.
Which is best?
It depends on the goal:
- For heirlooms, everyday rings and items to keep for decades, solid gold is the most durable.
- For fashion pieces and trying trends, plated or vermeil items cost far less.
- For a middle ground, gold-filled offers real wear life at a lower price.
Plated and filled items have little or no resale value as gold. Buyers of scrap gold usually pay only for solid karat gold.
Care tips for all types: remove jewelry before swimming, showering or exercising, apply perfume and lotion before putting it on, and store pieces separately so they do not scratch each other.
